Vistas of Norway
The idea of visiting Norway tantalized me for years. In May 2022, my ticket finally got punched to spend two weeks in Svalbard, and then two weeks hiking with a group of new friends on the Norwegian mainland. What better way to see such a beautiful place than to put your feet on the ground.
Norway more than met my preconceived notions about its rugged natural beauty. This Scandinavian country has some 3230 miles of coastline heavily dimpled by islands as it connects with the Norwegian Sea. Many people know of Norway’s fjords from the abundant, iconic photos of their long fingers of water kissing the sheer cliffs. We witnessed one of the best during an overnight ride on the famed Hurtigruten ferry line from Bergen to the end of the UNESCO-protected Geiranger fjord.
In addition to the Gulf Stream-warmed ocean water, Norway seems to gush with spring melt. Water tumbles from the heights in long white strands that fall from the brows of the hills. Never have I seen so many waterfalls, rivers, and streams. One of our hikes took us to the famous Storsaeterfossen (-fossen means “waterfall), where we could actually walk behind the roaring cascade.
Do you see the troll face high on the cliff?!
We rode by minivan from the town of Geiranger through the Romsdal Alps to Trollstigen (yes! troll country!). At the overlook on top, we had a stunning view of the Aldalsnes valley before driving down the 17 or so switch-back turns to the flats. Later, we hiked to the Mardalsfossen, one of the highest waterfalls in Europe, and met with a local reindeer hunter. With him, we ascended 3,000 feet to spot reindeer (we saw some!), with the bonus of a bird’s eye view down to his hamlet of Eikesdalen (pop.65).
The switchback road to the Andalsnes valley below.
Although the terrain and the farms clinging to the steep hillsides are picturesque, the world of the far north is far from easy. High levels of poverty and emigration have been common over time. For centuries, most folk have stayed busy fishing, farming, and in some places, doing timber work and mining. There were once clan wars. Famine. Religious and political intrigue. The whole of Scandinavia has often been organizationally confusing to outsiders, what with alliances and break-ups and regular disputes between Norway, Denmark, Sweden, and even Finland. Then, in 1349, the Black Death pandemic arrived. In one year, one-third of the Norwegian population died.
The morning view from the delightful Kavli Moen Gard retreat center.
The reindeer hunter on the (very high!) overlook.
Government power in Norway is split between the democratically-elected Parliament and the constitutional monarchy. Despite a declaration of neutrality in 1939, Norway was invaded by the Nazis in June, 1940 and occupied until May, 1945. During the war, a famed and successful resistance movement evolved, with the government and royal family helping the best they could while living in exile in England.
Mardalsfossen, reportedly the 4th highest waterfall in Europe.
A bit mystical in the minds of many, Norway does beckon the curious in lots of different ways. In addition to its stunning natural beauty, it boasts the northern lights, and decent food. (Although I could not stomach eating whale or seal, I did try the reindeer, which was fine, and I fell in love with the national staple of “brown cheese.”) Then there are the world-class explorers such as Fridjof Nansen and Roald Amundsen. Their outdoorsy example has endured in the spirit of Norwegian athletes, who typically own many of the winter Olympic sports.
Trondheim canal
And then there’s all that Viking history (9th-11th centuries), during which seafaring warriors from Scandinavia (including Norway, surely) infiltrated much of the known world. “Far from just barbaric, axe-wielding invaders, the Vikings created complex social institutions, oversaw the coming of Christianity to Scandinavia and left a major impact on European history through trade, colonization and far-flung exploration,” according to one history source [www.lifeinnorway.net/history-of-norway, accessed October 28, 2022]. And, interestingly, “Over a thousand Old Norse words influenced modern English along with more than 1,000 place names in northeast England and the Scottish islands.” Cool.
Nowadays, Norway’s identity and autonomy is well-recognized, and the nation enjoys well-earned stability. During my month there, the general vibe was always friendly and calm. Social programs are robust, largely thanks to the giant oil field discovered offshore in 1969 (by 1990, Norway was Europe’s largest oil producer). The tap water is safe to drink. But if you just want to go to Norway for the vistas, who could blame you? They were invariably magnificent.
[Sources: www.lifeinnorway.net/history-of-norway and www.lifeinnorway.net/history-of-norway]
