Camp Life on the Great Walk of Africa
Where you hang your hat—that’s home, to an adventurer. I love my real home, but when I’m away, it’s nice to know there’s a cozy place nearby ready to restore my weary body. Many times in years of wandering, home has consisted of a sleeping bag and inflatable pad in a backpacking tent, and that’s always more than fine with me. I love living in tents. But my perception of tent living was forever shifted when I joined the Great Walk of Africa in 2013.
The line of tents beneath the doum palms
Safari “tent” living is plush! As of 2024, I have had three trips with the exceptional Kenyan safari company Tropical Ice, and they have reframed my concept of “roughing” it. For one thing, there is ample room inside a safari-style tent for both occupants plus all the travel gear. Even a tall person can easily stand up. They have proper cots with proper sheets and blankets, plus a bedside table with lamp. There is a floor, and mesh windows that can be easily covered with canvas flaps if desired.
Shower tent orientation (also, the latrine tent)
Out front, on the veranda (yes, the veranda!) are two sturdy chairs and stools, a kerosene lamp, a washbasin, a thermos of fresh water, glasses, towels, even cubbies for toiletries. Out back are two smaller canvas structures. One is a latrine with a real toilet seat. The other is a (gasp!) shower tent. While the wilderness shower was then (to me) an unheard-of luxury, we soon discover yet another delight: hot water bottles slipped between the sheets during dinnertime to ward off the chilly night air. I’ve heard that uber-chic safaris are even fancier, but honestly, who needs it?
The mess tent
The amazing chefs at work
Promptly at 6:00 a.m. each day comes the cheerful wake-up call: “Jambo!” Members of the support team are coming along the river’s beach, bringing warm wash water. After a night that might have included hearing leopards nearby (they sound like logs being sawed) and wondering else what might be lurking between you and the latrine for that 3 a.m. visit, heaven is steaming water in the metal wash basin to offset the coolness of the morning.
Cocktail hour!
Tusker beer! Some bottles empty, some not (yet).
Later, we freshen up in a newly-relocated camp, moved each day by the amazing crew. After the exertions of our day of trekking, rinsing off in the shower tent with...aahhh!...hot water is heavenly—and a leap in style for me. Because the tent is open to the sky overhead, I can quite happily lather and rinse while watching the stars wink on. There is often time to indulge in a nap in the hammocks hanging around camp, or check out the impressive field library carried in a big wooden box and located in the mess tent near the any-time tea station.
Typical terrain along the Galena River
The home stretch = a river crossing
At the appointed hour, we gather in a circle of sturdy armchairs beside a bonfire near the mess tent. Fancy appetizers and fine African wines and Tusker beer are on offer, along with soft drinks and plentiful filtered water. The nearby river is the source for water. Water haulers are escorted by armed spotters in case of predators lying in wait. It requires many gallons of fire-heated water a day for cooking, washing—and our evening showers.
Three times a day, the most amazing, delectable meals appear, prepared as if by magic (but actually in Dutch ovens and on open fires). They include eggplant parmesan, a turkey dinner with all the trimmings, delectable Nicoise or Cobb or other salads, curries, old fashion roasts, and much more. When Ellen’s birthday rolls around, there is even a real cake (after she first tries unsuccessfully to cut the frosted elephant turd—these guys have a great sense of humor!). Sometimes, there is even ice cream.
Spoiled, I am. Utterly spoiled.
Open-air lunch on the final day
The reality of being so isolated in the Tsavo National Parks of Kenya means abiding by a few important rules. There are strictly defined campground boundaries. Wandering farther may seem tempting, but is foolhardy. As it is, those living farthest from the mess tent (usually the tent I share with my adventure travel buddy, Margaret) are escorted by armed Samburu men after dark. (It is similarly adventurous to ford the river to and from our hiking route each day, when we bunch together on the theory that crocodiles and hippos will mistake us for elephants, too large to bother with—a strategy which has worked for the Tropical Ice team for decades.)
End-of-day game drive
All that “hardship”! But we manage to gut it out. I remain humbly grateful for my good fortune to have the health and means to go on adventures such as the Great Walk of Africa—and to come “home” each day to a comfy camp, a refreshing shower and a good sleep!
For More Information:
About The Great Walk of Africa (and other adventures): https://www.tropical-ice.com
Iain’s autobiography, OUTSIDER... A Life with the Elephants and Mountains of Africa, published in 2024, is available at independent booksellers (or on Amazon...).
An earlier version of this blog appeared in 2013 in “Design Destinations,” at http://www.designdestinations.org/2013/11/great-walk-camp-life
