Kate Dernocoeur

Kate Dernocoeur

Nov 022018

A place such as Ushuaia tantalizes us map-addicts. It’s such a delicious name, rivaling others such as Addis Ababa, Ulaanbaatar, Kalamazoo. And it’s in such an end-of-the-world place, too! There’s just something special about places that crowd the edges the way Ushuaia does.

Docking at “Puerto Ushuaia” after returning from Antarctica

As the cold November winds rise in the northern hemisphere, I’m mindful that spring is beginning to blow its more moderate breath upon those living at the other end of our globe. Way down south from my home in North America, the ski season is winding down in Ushuaia, Argentina. Soon, the floods of Antarctica-bound tourists and research scientists will return, as will the migratory birds, swelling avian numbers at the nearby national park to ninety species or so.

A look inland from the port

The wider world has known about this area since Magellan sailed through in about 1520, although indigenous peoples known as the Yaghan (or Yamana) were already there, and others had been in residence for about 10,000 years. Magellan named this area “Land of Fire,” and Ushuaia is the capital of this “Tierra del Fuego.”

On our brief visits to Ushuaia, I found myself captivated by the circumstances of life on an island located at the very tip of South America. It was easy, when strolling the streets of the small town, to witness a fair degree of whimsy and eclectic taste in architecture. And the Pan-American Highway (aka Argentina National Route 3) ends here, too. Or does it begin here? Depends on your perspective, I guess.

A themed house showing the characters who once lived in this small town

The convicts are escaping from the themed house! (That’s OK, they aren’t real…)

Ushuaia is rich in the history of sea-faring people who had to negotiate the turbulent waters at Cape Horn via the Drake Passage to gain access to the next ocean over (Atlantic to Pacific, and vice versa). Then, too, there is the history of the seal – and whale – ships plying the Southern Ocean in the 19th and early 20th centuries in search of their oil.

Like the outpost of Australia, Ushuaia seemed to some a good place to colonize with convicts. The first arrived aboard a naval ship in January 1896, and in 1902 a military prison elsewhere was moved to Ushuaia “for humanitarian reasons.” When we visited the prison (now a museum), it was difficult to perceive the situation as being a step up. For one thing, the harsh, remote environment certainly put a damper on escape efforts. Of course, the convicts were conscripted to build the prison themselves, between 1902 and 1920. At one time, more than 600 convicts called the place home, until it was closed in 1947.

Ushuaia Jail and Military Prison (cleaned up and not populated…)

Hemmed in by the Martial mountain range (locals call them “Andes Fueguinos”) and the Beagle Channel, Ushuaia is home now to about 57,000 persons. The town motto is, “Ushuaia, end of the world, beginning of everything.” Indeed.

The (famous) Beagle Channel at an impressive time of day!

Oct 192018

My early days of adventure travel were bolstered by slim travel volumes, such as those from Lonely Planet. Among the best of my resources was the thin tome, “Southeast Asia on a Shoestring.” The finest travel advice, though, came from a friend just before Jim & I set out for our year of wandering: “Tips from other travelers are like dancing lessons from the gods.”

Indeed. At the hostels we frequented in those days, we compared notes with people traveling in the opposite direction. The result was fresh word-of-mouth insights and important travel tips, and often, new friends. I miss that serendipity. Continue reading »

Oct 052018

[The Generally Write blog has suffered lately, I’m sorry to say. I have been traveling a lot in the past couple of months, including trips overseas. The good news: stay tuned for lots of travel/adventure entries! To make up for lost time, I thought this essay from 2009 might help explain the feelings of re-entry common to anyone suffering jetlag. It was originally published in the online journal, Airplane Reading, which can be found at www.airplanereading.org]

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The Adventure Juggling Act

 Adventure, Generally Write, Travel  Comments Off on The Adventure Juggling Act
Aug 222018

Adventures are all about challenging myself to step beyond the everydayness of daily life and finding that which can teach me something new. It begins, I suppose, by taking on the attitude that life itself—even that which appears to be normal or routine—is always a challenge, even without the add-on of going somewhere. Just getting out of bed is a new adventure, if you ask me.

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Antarctic Seals

 Generally Write  Comments Off on Antarctic Seals
Jun 112018

Being at the tip of Antarctica brought about unusual wildlife viewing opportunities. I’m more accustomed to watching out for land-based critters in my travels. In Antarctica (the only continent without an indigenous human population), evolution still resulted in many “locals,” but they are mostly in the water. Even penguins, who go ashore to hatch and raise their chicks, spend much (maybe most) of their time in the water. Here, a good pair of binoculars and time spent studying the surface of the water and icebergs were necessary for success.

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May 042018

As mentioned in the previous blog post, ice is the most prominent feature in Antarctica. No surprise, considering that the continent is covered with it. Add to that the ice shelves and sea ice that greatly enlarge its area in winter.

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Apr 092018

How can a heart not melt when amongst penguins?

Photo Credit: Alison Taggart Barone

This, my first close encounter, came January 29, 2017 on our voyage’s first foray onto the Antarctic landscape. This chinstrap penguin looking directly into the camera can’t possibly be for real…can it? I know anthropomorpholizing animals is antiquated, but, gosh, it was impossible not to attribute any number of endearing adjectives to these hardy, impressive creatures. Continue reading »

Mar 052018

Some of the roughest seas of anywhere in the world belong to Drake Passage, making it one of the most iconic, must-experience journeys for anyone in love with adventure. How did I come to know about Drake Passage? I don’t remember. All I know is it has figured in my imagination seemingly forever.

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